Fall is for Planting

Summer is over and my garden like those of everyone else had trials and tribulations. It didn’t warm until the middle of June so if you put your tomatoes, zucchini, and chili in the ground, they just sat there and didn’t grow. Then the heat came and burned everything it could to a crisp. If you were lucky, some tomatoes survived and you had a good late crop. The chili loved the heat and anyone that planted it had plenty. Now it is Fall and if you are like most gardeners, thoughts turn to the next year. Do you need some shade from a tree in a spot? How about planting a fruit tree and enjoying your own fresh fruit? What about planting drought tolerant flowers for color? Fall is the best time to begin these projects Bud Lopez, Horticulturalist and Tribal Extension Ag Agent recently gave a talk on Fall Planting in Grants and Gallup and gave me permission to include information in this article. If you are not familiar with the gardening classes given by the extension service, check them out on their web site. Just type in your county. They will have a class on Wintering Your Garden in October.

In the fall the soil is still warm and optimum root production is maximized. Perennials can get established before winter dormancy giving you a head start in spring. Trees and shrubs can produce roots well into the winter because they are planted at greater depths. This helps the plants tolerate heat and drought stress the following summer. Cooler days mean plants need less water to maintain foliage. Because the day time is shorter, plants can devote more energy to root production and less to foliage production.

For perennials, deciduous trees and shrubs, after the leaves have dropped so water and energy resources can be diverted to root production.

Things other than trees, shrubs, and perennials can be planted in the Fall.

Spring blooming bulbs: Tulips, daffodils, and a long list of other bulbs are found in many local stores. They are planted now, fertilized with bulb food, and watered. They put down roots over the winter and bless your yard with glorious color in spring.

Planting for fall herbs and vegetables is best done in August. Put it on your calendar for next year and you can enjoy spinach, kale, radishes, parsley, and cilantro in November.

Fall annuals can bring color to your yard through the fall months. Pansy, chrysanthemum, and Autumn Joy Sedum are some of the plants to look for.

Perennials are plants, usually with flowers that die back to the ground in winter and flower again the next year. Existing plants can be dug, divided, and replanted in the fall. Give the plants some extra compost and a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote, water to settle the soil around the roots. If we don’t have snow cover give water monthly during the winter. (Extra plant roots can be shared with friends).

Trees and shrubs can be planted anytime in the fall and early winter, even after they have gone dormant. If the ground is not frozen, you can plant. Our climate zone in Grants and Gallup is Zone 5. If you live in the surrounding mountains, you are in Zone 4. The warmer the winter, the higher the number. When you choose a tree, be sure to find out if it tolerates freezing. Some trees have varieties that may be more or less cold hardy. Be aware of your space. You don’t want a tree that grows to 50 feet under powerlines or three feet from your house. Also, know where your sewer pipes and buried power lines are before you dig. Most fruit trees need a second tree to set fruit. Be sure to check the variety you choose to see if it is “Self-Fertile” if you only have room for one tree.

For the best chance of survival, you must be aware of a few things different in the High Desert.

Lowest temperature – be sure you know your zone and keep that in mind when you choose your plant. A nursery will know their plants and will know what grows at your location. When you shop at a big box store you need to do your own research. Check Google or your search engine and type the Latin name on the plant tag (if they have it listed) for accurate information.

Water needs – This variable has the most impact on survival. Water, water, water! All new plantings must be watered. How often depends on the moisture you receive in the winter and your soil. Do you have clay, sand, or a mixture? To little water and your plants will die. Too much water and you can rot the roots. It is a delicate situation but not terribly difficult when you know what kind of soil you have.

Wind – Our winds can cause serious wind burn. Since the new root balls are small in comparison to the leaves, they can’t provide the water needed when the wind whips through the leaves.

There are products you can use to help your plants have the best chance of survival.

Wilt Pruf is used on trees, shrubs, roses, and ornamentals. It protects against transplant stress, seasonal drought, and winter burn. It is sprayed on the leaves/needles of evergreens when you plant and reapplied if washed off from rain or snow.

Tree Wrap is used to wrap the trunk of trees to prevent damage from the sun on the exposed trunk. Most young trees have a thin layer of bark and our intense winter sun can cause permanent damage.

Tree straps and stakes will prevent a tree from being permanently bent side-ways. Apply so there is some give with the wind and use a wide enough strap to keep it from cutting into the bark.

Soil Moist is a product you can buy that expands to hold water. It is mixed into the soil at the bottom of the hole before the tree is placed and holds water to release it to the plant when the soil is dry.

Super Thrive maximizes the plant’s ability to build a strong root base and reduces transplant shock. Mix it with the water as directed on the bottle and apply to the roots and soil on top of the plant.

Edith Iwan is a Master Gardener who lives and works in Thoreau. As a Master Gardener she assists the County Cooperative Extension Service in providing accurate, research-based gardening information to county residents. If you have any gardening questions, please call the NMSU Cibola County Extension at 505-287-9266 or NMSU McKinley County Extension at 505-863-3432.